Riding into the American History in France

American Battle Monuments Commission

26 June 2005 found another beautiful day for a ride in Europe. This time the destination was France, and some "monuments from World War 1 and World War 2." As I had not really heard of it and had already seen some of the Black Forest (the other option for a good ride), I quickly decided that a "history lesson" sounded interesting and fun. I could not have been more right, and if time would have permitted, I would have spent a few days or weeks to poking around this very area just taking it all in. The area is around the Verdan, France area (you may remember that this area was mentioned in the HBO movie "Band of Brothers"...Very good, if you have not seen this one, it is worth the 10 hours or so). Anyway, back to the ride. We all met earlier then usual..normal is 11:30 or so...today began by meeting at 8:30, with full tanks of gas (as it was, we still had 2 gas stops for the entire day!). We departed and did something that we have rarely done... we rode autobahn for the first 60-80 miles and ended with the same stretch at the end, mainly to guarantee that we could make this a one day trip! None of the pictures in this album are of the ride or stops other then the 2 Historical sites. I will put together another album sometime that has those type of pictures! This album is in honor of those that served and those that gave their life during the 2 Great Wars. I was able to get an informational flier that has more information then I would have had before, so, for the best description, I will type it here so you can see the best information on these 2 Monuments. Forgive me, but I will give credit for the writing that follows to those that deserve it. I have 2 sets of photos in this list. The pictures that have descriptions for the names are taken by me. Those that have a number name were taken by Albi and provided to me. The other way to look at it is that the first half of the pictures are mine, and the last half were taken by Albi.

The First stop was the Montsec Federal Monument. Here is the information that was listed for this:

On a high isolated hill, 12 miles from the St. Mihiel American Cemetery, stands the Montsec Monument. It commemorates the capture of the St. Mihiel salient by the American First Army, the operations of the American Second Army on 9-11 November 1918, and other combat services of the American divisions both in this region and in Alsace and Lorraine. The Monument consists of a large circular colonnade, at the center of which, on a raised platform, is a bronze relief map of the St. Mihiel salient. Its size, the commanding site, and the perfection of its proportions combine to make it one of the most impressive in Europe.

The second stop was at the St. Mihiel American Cemetery. Much more information was available for this site, but all of it is nice, and helped me to value my visit even more.

The American Battle Monuments Commission (ABMC), established by law in 1923, is an independent agency of the Executive Branch of the US Government. The Commission is responsible for commemorating the service and achievements of U.S. Armed Forces where they have served since 6 April 1917 (the date of US entry into World War 1) through the erection of suitable memorial shrines; for designing, constructing, operating and maintaining permanent US military cemeteries and memorials in foreign countries; for controlling the design and construction of US military monuments and markers in foreign countries by other US citizens and organizations, both public and private; and encouraging the maintenance of such monuments and markers by their sponsors.

This cemetery, 40.5 acres in extent, is located almost at the center of the salient where the majority of the 4,153 military Dead buried here gave their lives. The cemetery was first established as a temporary cemetery by the American Graves Registration Service following the offensive in 1918. It is the 3rd largest of 8 permanent WW1 American military cemetery memorials in Europe. Free use of the land, as a permanent burial ground, was granted by the French Government in perpetuity, without charge or taxation, as an expression of its gratitude to the USA.

General layout. The formal entrance with its ornamental grill gates and fencing and its gem-like buildings, is of striking beauty and offers an excellent view of the cemetery. Behind the Visitors' Building of Euville limestone is the cemetery proper. Here, in a beautifully landscaped setting, are the graves area and the memorial. At the intersection of the central mall and transverse axis in the center of the cemetery is a large sundial of attractive design consisting of a carved stone eagle gnomen on a round base. Around the circular base of the sundial is carved the inscription: TIME WILL NOT DIM THE GLORY OF THEIR DEEDS. From this point one can view the beautiful perspectives along the 2 axes of the cemetery. At the west end of the transverse axis is a sculptured stone figure of a youthful American officer, standing in front of a stone cross in his field uniform, with trench helmet in hand and side arms and map case. At the opposite end of the transverse axis is an ornamental urn on a semi-circular platform flanked by 2 beautiful yews. From this platform, facing east, an excellent view of the surrounding rural countryside may be seen.

The memorial, an open circular or peristyle, is flanked by a chapel room on the left and a museum room on the right. On the left front facade of the memorial is engraved a lamp representing an eternal flame. This sculpture is reproduced on the opposite facade. The memorial rests on a slightly raised circular terrace and is enclosed by a stone faced wall. On the lawn in front of it are 2 flagpoles, with bronze bases, from which the American flag flies every day of the year. On the inside surface of the lintel is carved: THIS CHAPEL HAS BEEN ERECTED BY THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OF HER SONS WHO DIED IN THE WORLD WAR. These words emphasize that the memorial and, indeed, the entire cemetery were not erected to commemorate the glory of battle won or the triumph of victory achieved, but to pay homage to those American servicemen who made the supreme sacrifice for their country. The large rose-granite urn with its carved drapery at the center of the peristyle resembles an ancient funeral vase. One of its decorative features is a winged horse, Pegasus, symbolizing the flight of the immortal soul to its resting place in the life beyond. To the right side of the memorial one enters the museum through a set of bronze doors similar to those leading to the chapel. On the wall directly opposite the doorway is a beautiful map of the St. Mihiel region inlaid with various colored marble. This map shows the boundaries of the salient, the German lines before the offensive, the allied lines after the battle and the progress of the campaign. On the side walls of the museum are black marble panels, at the tops of which are engraved: IN MEMORY OF THOSE AMERICAN SOLDIERS WHO FOUGHT IN THIS REGION AND WHO SLEEP IN UNKNOWN GRAVES. Listed below the inscription in gold letters are the names of 284 American soldiers who gave their lives in this area but whose remains were not recovered or identified. An asterisk marks the names of those who were subsequently identified.

The Chapel. To the left of the peristyle, bronze doors, decorated with stars and 2 miniature soldier heads, lead to the impressive interior of the chapel room. The carved white Italian marble altar holds a lighted bronze lamp symbolic of an eternal flame. Above the alter is a richly colored mosaic depicting the "Angel of Victory" sheathing a sword and "Doves of Peace" bearing olive branches. The mosaics on the end walls have as their main feature large shields displaying the national colors of the United States and France. The coffered ceiling is decorated in gold and dark blue, while the floor and lower wall-paneling are of inlaid marble with light and dark green markings.

The graves area consists of 4 burial plots separated by the central mall and the transverse axes. The 4,153 headstones are arranged in parallel rows. 117 of those headstones mark the graves of "Unknowns" whose remain could not be identified. Stars of David mark the graves of those who professed the Jewish faith while Latin crosses mark all others. The precise alignment of clean, polished marble headstones on clipped green grass assures the visitor that no feature of the cemetery receives more respectful care than does the graves area.

The plantings. The entrance gate to the cemetery is a large bed of flowering annuals. The main paths are bordered by square-trimmed European Linden trees, their low overhanging boughs furnishing a canopy. Flower beds of polyantha roses are planted along the transverse axes. The base of the decorative sundial is surrounded by beds of flowering annuals and boarded with dwarf boxwood hedge.

The architect for the cemetery and memorial was Thomas Harlan Ellett, of New York. After construction of the cemetery and memorial was completed a dedication ceremony was held on 30 May 1937.

St. Mihiel American Cemetery

54470 Thiaucourt

TELE: 03.83.80.01.01 FAX: 03.83.81.94.72

e-mail: Saint-Mihiel.Cemetery@abmc-cr.org

website: http://www.abmc.gov